Free Shipping in the Continental US
Phone Number 214-385-4890 or 888-255-2950 M-F 8AM-3PM CT
Best Selection & Lowest Prices for Motor Vehicle DIY Repair Manuals and How-to Books!
DIY ManualsDIY Manuals >> Service & Repair >> Car Repair Manuals >> Saturn Repair Manuals >> Saturn SC, SC1, SC2, SL, SL1, SL2, SW1, SW2 Repair Manual 1991-2002
Saturn SC, SC1, SC2, SL, SL1, SL2, SW1, SW2 Repair Manual 1991-2002Click To Enlarge Product Image

Saturn Coupe, Sedan, Wagon Repair & Service Manual 1991-2002

Item #CH62300-002
MSRP: $31.95
$23.95
(You Save $8.00)
QTY:
Usually ships the next business day
Safe ShoppingEasy Returns
Free Ground Shipping
  • Item Description
  • Table of Contents
  • Specifications

This repair manual by Chilton Manuals, covers all models of 1991-2002 Saturn cars, U.S. and Canadian, including:

  • Saturn SC | Saturn SC1 | Saturn SC2

  • Saturn SL | Saturn SL1 | Saturn SL2

  • Saturn SW1 | Saturn SW2

Book Excerpt: 1991-2002 Saturn Coupe, Sedan, Wagon Repair and Service Manual

ENGINES

FLYWHEEL/DRIVEPLATE: REMOVAL, INSPECTION, INSTALLATION

Refer to illustration 15.3

REMOVAL

  1. Remove the transaxle (see Chapter 7).

  2. If you?re working on a model with a manual transaxle, remove the pressure plate and clutch disc (see Chapter 8). Now is a good time to check/replace the clutch components.

  3. Use a center-punch or paint to make alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft to ensure correct alignment during installation (see illustration).

  4. Remove the bolts that secure the flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft. If the crankshaft turns, wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to jam the flywheel.

  5. Remove the flywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft. Since the flywheel is fairly heavy, be sure to support it while removing the last bolt.

  6. Clean the flywheel to remove grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks, Light scoring can be removed with emery cloth. Lay the flywheel on a flat surface and use a straightedge to check to warpage. If necessary, take the flywheel to an automotive machine shop to have it resurfaced.

  7. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If the crankshaft rear seal is leaking, replace it before reinstalling the flywheel/driveplate.

HOOD: REMOVAL, INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT

Refer to illustration 9.1

NOTE: The hood is heavy and somewhat awkward to remove and install. At least two people should perform this procedure.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

  1. Make marks around the bolt heads to ensure proper alignment during installation (see illustration).

  2. Use blankets or pads to cover the cowl area of the body and fenders. This will protect the body and paint as the hood is lifted off.

  3. Disconnect any cables or wires that will interfere with removal.

  4. Have an assistant support the hood. Remove the hinge-to-hood bolts.

  5. Lift off hood.

  6. Installation is the reverse of removal.

    ADJUSTMENT

    Refer to illustrations 9.10 and 9.11

  7. Fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjustment of the hood is done by removing the hinge plate slot after loosening the belts.

  8. Scribe or draw a line around the bolt heads and the entire hinge plate so you can judge the amount of movement (see illustration 9.1).

  9. Loosen the bolts and move the hood into correct alignment. Move it only a little at a time. Tighten the hinge bolts or nuts and carefully lower the hood to check the position.

  10. If necessary after installation, the entire hood latch assembly can be adjusted up-and-down as well as from side-to-side on the radiator support so the hood closes securely, flush with the fenders. To make the adjustment, scribe a line around the hood latch mounting bolts to provide a reference point, then loosen them and reposition the latch assembly, as necessary (see illustration). Following adjustment, retighten the mounting bolts.

  11. Finally, adjust the hood bumpers on the radiator so the hood, when closed, is flush with the fenders (see illustration).

Subject: 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 Saturn SC, SC1, SC2, SL, SL1, SL2, SW1, and SW2 service, maintenance, repair. ISBN-10: 156392563X | ISBN-13: 9781563925634

TABLE of CONTENTS:

Introductory Pages: About this manual | Introduction | Vehicle identification numbers | Buying parts | Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities | Jacking and towing | Booster battery (jump) starting | Conversion factors | Fraction/decimal/millimeter equivalents | Automotive chemicals and lubricants | Safety first! | Troubleshooting

  • Tune-up and routine maintenance
  • Engines; General engine overhaul procedures
  • Cooling, heating and air-conditioning systems
  • Fuel and exhaust systems
  • Engine electrical systems
  • Emissions and engine control systems
  • Manual transaxle, automatic transaxle
  • Clutch and driveaxles
  • Brakes
  • Suspension and steering systems
  • Body
  • Chassis electrical system; Wiring diagrams

  • Publisher: Chilton Manuals
  • Pages: 322 - Over 300 b&w photos and illustrations
  • Binding: Paperback - 8.5 x 11 inches
  • ISBN: 978-1-56392-563-4
  • Years: 1991 - 2002
  • Saturn SC, SC1, SC2, SL, SL1, SL2, SW1, SW2 Repair Manual 1991-2002
    $23.95
    5 Stars based on 1 Review(s)
    JSchif
    Dairy, OR
    5 Stars
    I would recommend this item to a friend.

    Home repair for the Saturn SL1.
    October 23, 2014
    As many of you know, the Saturn car company was closed in the GMC reorganization in 2008. This is unfortunate because my Saturn SL1 with cruise control got 45 mpg when new and at 177,000 miles was still getting 40 mpg. (The Toyota Prius gets 50 mpg.) The only problem my car had was a leak on the third spark plug where engine coolant was getting to the spark plug setting off the check engine soon light. Usually you could get the problem corrected by adding more engine oil. This pressurizes the engine just enough to drive the coolant off the spark plug and it would fire again. Midas repair serviced the coolant an added liquid paper in the coolant so it plugged the leak. This was not a permanent fix, but good enough to get the car to run for two years. When new, the engine expectation before needing to be rebuilt was 200,000. The reason the engine gasket failed is because in 1996 we did not have ethanol in our gasoline. Ethanol makes the engine run hotter than normal. Over time it created the leak. When the engine is rebuilt, the new gasket should be Ethanol tolerant and the car should return to getting 45 mpg. The manual is invaluable. Although a GMC vehicle, having the specifics for this make and model is so very helpful. Good to keep the manual in the vehicle for reference for whatever service group you take your car to for repair, or you can do it yourself.
    Pros:
    You do not have to look it up on the computer and print pages. Bought this manual as a gift for the new owners to whom we gave this vehicle.
    Cons:
    None to report.