Big-Block Chevy motors have seen duty in many roles. From being true workhorses in medium-duty trucks, to powering musclecars such as the Corvette.
If you happen to have a Big-Block Chevy in your garage or shop, this is a motor worth rebuilding, and this how-to book shows you with text and over 500 close-up photos, how to do it, from beginning to end.
How to Rebuild Big-Block Chevy Engines by Tom Wilson, has been a popular selling guide here at The Motor Bookstore, for many years, and with good reason. With comprehensive engine specs, photos, drawings, charts and graphs, this is one of the most complete manuals on the subject.
Plus, you also get details on troubleshooting, how to recondition parts, and how to properly assemble the motor.
So, if you need the perfect companion to help you rebuild your 366, 396, 400, 402, 427 or 454 Chevy engine, this is it!
Book Excerpt: How to Rebuild Big-Block Chevy Engines
KNOCK, KNOCK, PING, PING
We've all heard the death rattle of yesterday's engines running on today's gasoline. A constant, cacophonous dirge of pounding pistons and ringing blocks accompanies every downward stroke of the accelerator.
TABLE of CONTENTS:
Even newer low-compression engines ping and run on, not to mention older big-blocks and their once "low compression" of 10.25:1! Internal elements cry audibly for mercy with each power stroke. So what can you do now that high-octane gasoline is but a memory?
There's a lot to do. Which anti-knock cure is best depends on your engine. Later engines are supposed to run well on modern gasoline, so getting all the internal parts in shape should do the trick.
The key words are "supposed to," so keep reading. Earlier engines may require extensive modification before they will run well on low-octane gasoline.
The first decision; will the engine be run on leaded or unleaded fuel? If your engine is a 1975 or later model it doesn't matter, it will run on unleaded fuel. Earlier engines were designed for leaded premium fuels, which are fast disappearing.
To make the switch to unleaded fuel, you'll need to install satellite valve seats and bronze valve guides or inserts. Without these two modifications the valves ill suffer from lack of lubrication that was provided by leaded fuel.
Your big-block may be able to run with 93-octane unleaded without pinging, but the valves will be "running dry." They will soon wear out. Hard seats and bronze guides should also be used if your big-block is going to be run on propane fuel.
TRW markets high-nickel valves that withstand heat better than stock replacements, so you may want to try them.
Buying new seats and guides is expensive, and so is rigging a propane fuel system. Leaded regular fuel is here to stay, apparently, so consider modifying your big-block to run on it.
Simply installing two head gaskets will cheaply and effectively reduce any engine's compression ratio so it will run on regular - especially if it's a later version with stock low compression.
- Time to rebuild?
- Engine removal
- Parts identification and interchange
- Shortblock reconditioning
- Cylinder-head reconditioning
- Engine assembly
- Engine installation
Subject: A step-by-step guide that shows you how to rebuild your Chevy Big-Block motor. ISBN-10: 0895861755 | ISBN-13: 9780895861757 | HPBooks 755