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How to Rebuild Big-Block Ford Engines: FE & FT Models, All YearsClick To Enlarge Product Image

How to Rebuild Big-Block Ford Engines: FE & FT Models, All Years

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Talk about an ubiquitous engine... from cars and trucks to the LeMans-winning GT40, the Ford big-block V8 has seen it all.

Now, with the help of How to Rebuild Big-Block Ford Engines, do-it-yourselfers have a roadmap on how to rebuild an FE or FT engine at home and correctly, with stock factory parts.

Aided by more than 500 close-up photos and easy-to-understand text instructions, DIYers can now tear down, inspect, repair or recondition components and more, to re-assembling the motor and re-installing it in the engine bay.

But even if all you need to do is just a parts swap, this book is required reading.

And speaking of swapping parts... a bonus section is dedicated to how to swap and identify parts, plus one of the most complete listings of casting numbers and specs available anywhere!

This book covers 330HD, 330MD, 332, 352, 352HP, 359, 360, 361, 389, 390, 390HP, 391, 410, 427, 428, 428CJ, and 428SCJ cubic-inch engines, FE and FT models used in Ford and Mercury passenger cars and Ford trucks.


Book Excerpt: How to Rebuild Big-Block Ford Engines

CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING

INTAKE MANIFOLD

The outside of the intake manifold is easy to clean, but there is a carburetor heat passage underneath. In most cases it is sealed by a stamped-steel shield. Some High-Riser and Tunnel-Port intakes didn't have heat-riser passages.

Some other high-performance intakes have core plugs for cleaning the underside of the heat passage.

On some early models the heat shield is bolted on. To remove these just unbolt them. Later models use rivets to retain the shield. The rivets have a spiral thread on them and are more difficult to remove. To remove these rivets, use a 1/4 - 1/2 in. -wide chisel.

Wedge the chisel under the edge of the rivet head. Gently tap the chisel just enough to lift the rivet head. You are trying to lever it up, not shear it off, so angle the chisel so it will miss the shank.

Stay to the side of the rivet once it starts lifting up. Once the rivet comes out far enough, clamp onto the head with a pair of Vise-Grips. Pull the rivet up gently, twisting it counter-clockwise to unscrew it.

With the cover off, remove the carbon buildup from the bottom of the intake manifold. You can use a chisel or old screwdriver, but be careful, particularly with an aluminum manifold. It's easy to damage an aluminum casting.

Clean the manifold until there is no carbon buildup left. Use a wire brush or screwdriver. A rotary wire brush works well, but be sure to wear safety glasses when using one.

When you finish cleaning, rotate the battle back into place and reinstall the rivet. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to hold the rivet while you start it in. Finish by driving the rivet back into place.

A couple of good whacks will seat the other rivet back against the baffle.


TABLE of CONTENTS:
  • Do you need to rebuild?
  • Engine removal
  • Parts identification and interchange
  • Teardown
  • Short-block reconditioning
  • Cylinder-head reconditioning
  • Reassembly
  • Installation
  • Tune-up
Subject: DIY Engine Rebuilding: Ford: How to rebuild big-block Ford FE or FT V8 motors. ISBN-10: 0895860708 | ISBN-13: 9780895860705 | HPBooks 708

  • Publisher: HPBooks
  • Author: Steve Christ
  • Pages: 160 - Over 500 b&w photos and illustrations
  • Binding: Paperback - 8.25 x 11 inches
  • ISBN: 978-0-89586-070-5
  • How to Rebuild Big-Block Ford Engines: FE & FT Models, All Years
    $17.95