With the help of this manual by Haynes, you'll learn about identifying a Ford V8 engine, the tools and equipment you will need to properly rebuild your engine, tips on cylinder head servicing, and much more.
Easy-to-follow instructions accompanied by more than 300 close-up photos, show you the process on a step-by-step basis. Plus plenty of pro tips as well as performance and economy mods for your Ford motor.
A must-have manual for anyone who wants to rebuild a Ford V8 engine, and do so correctly!
Book Excerpt: Ford Engine Overhaul Manual: Diagnosis, Performance and Economy
- Ford 255 cubic-inch V8
- Ford 260 cubic-inch V8
- Ford 289 cubic-inch V8
- Ford 302 cubic-inch V8
- Ford 351 cubic-inch V8
- Ford 360 cubic-inch V8
- Ford 390 cubic-inch V8
- Ford 400 cubic-inch V8
- Ford 428 cubic-inch V8
- Ford 429 cubic-inch V8
- Ford 460 cubic-inch V8
HAYNES FORD ENGINE OVERHAUL MANUAL
REMOVING THE RADIATOR
PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS
The first parts to be removed from the engine compartment are the radiator and its related components, which should be disconnected first. The radiator fins are easily bent and damaged, making it virtually impossible to remove the engine with the radiator in the vehicle. The core fins on the radiator are very sharp, so watch your knuckles when you are working nearby.
Make sure all the coolant has drained from the system and the pan has been removed and the coolant properly disposed of (many communities have collection centers that will dispose of oil and coolant properly).
You will have to ?roll around? on your creeper under the vehicle to disconnect clamps, splash pans, transmission cooling lines etc., so it is a good idea to make sure the area is clean and there are not any obstacles.
Remove the bolts or sheet metal screws that hold the fan shroud onto the radiator (see illustration). Some fan shrouds use tabs to keep the bottom locked into the frame of the radiator at the bottom.
Use a droplight or flashlight in the dark corners of the engine compartment to help identify the correct size of the bolt to avoid making a mistake (e.g. using an oversize socket or wrench and stripping the head).
After disconnecting the fan shroud, set it away from the radiator, directly over the fan.
If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, disconnect the transmission cooling lines from the radiator and the transmission (see illustration).
Use a flare-nut wrench to avoid stripping the head of the fitting. If the fitting is very tight, do not force the fitting loose because there is a good chance the radiator will break at the junction.
Use a back-up wrench on the radiator union to keep it stationary. Remove any clips or brackets that hold the transmission lines to the engine and carefully disconnect the lines. Try not to bend the lines too much when disconnecting them.
TABLE of CONTENTS:
- Completely remove the ridge at the top of each cylinder with a ridge reaming tool (see illustration). Follow the manufacturer?s instructions provided with the tool. Failure to remove the ridge before attempting to remove the piston/connecting rod assemblies may result in piston breakage.
- After the cylinder ridges have been removed, turn the engine upside-down so the crankshaft is facing up.
- Before the connecting rods are removed, check the endplay with feeler gauges. Slide them between each connecting rod and the crankshaft throw until the play is removed (see illustration).
The endplay is equal to the thickness of the feeler gauges(s). If the endplay exceeds the service limit (about 0.023 in on most models), new connecting rods will be required.
If new rods (or a new crankshaft) are installed, the endplay may fall under the specified minimum- about 0.010 on most models- (if it does, the rods will have to be machined to restore it- consult an automotive machine shop for advice if necessary).
Repeat the procedure for the remaining connecting rods.
- Check the connecting rods and caps for identification marks (see illustration). If they aren?t plainly marked, use a small centerpunch to make the appropriate number of indentations on each rod and cap (1-8 on the cylinder they?re associated with).
- Loosen each of the connecting rod cap nuts « -turn at a time until they can be removed by hand. Remove the number one connecting rod cap and bearing insert. Don?t drop the bearing insert out of the cap.
Slip a short length of plastic or rubber hose over each connecting rod cap bolt to protect the crankshaft journal and cylinder wall as the piston is removed (see illustration).
Push the connecting rod/piston assembly out through the top of the engine. Use a wooden hammer handle to push on the upper bearing insert in the connecting rod. If resistance is felt, double-check to make sure that all of the ridge was removed from the cylinder.
- Tools and Equipment
- Diagnosing Engine Problems
- Preparing for an Overhaul
- Overhauling the Cylinder Heads
- Overhauling the Engine Block
- Reassembling and Installing the Engine
- Related Repairs
- Improving Performance and Economy
Subject: Transportation: Automotive: Powerplants: Ford engine overhaul manual. ISBN-10: 1850107637 | ISBN-13: 9781850107637 | Haynes 10320