BMW 3-Series (E30) Repair Manual 318i, 325, 325e, 325es, 325i, 325is, and 325i Convertible 1984-1990

• BMW 318i
• BMW 325
• BMW 325e
• BMW 325es
• BMW 325i
• BMW 325is
• BMW 325i Convertible

• BMW 318i: M10 - 1.8L engine
• BMW 325/e/es: M20 - 2.7L engine
• BMW 325/i/is/Convertible: M20 - 2.5L engine

• Getrag 240 (4-cylinder cars)
• Getrag 260 (6-cylinder cars)

CYLINDER BLOCK AND PISTONS

The cylinder block for the engines covered by this manual are made of cast iron. For extra strength, the sides of the crankcase extend well below the centerline of the main bearings. The cylinders are integral with the block and are completely exposed on all sides to the coolant that circulates through the water jackets.

Cylinder block problems normally result from wear due to high mileage. Low compression pressures and noise due to excessive clearances are signs of a seriously worn engine. See ENGINE MANAGEMENT - DRIVEABILITY for more information.


CYLINDER BLOCK OIL SEALS

On all engines covered by this manual, the front cylinder block oil seal(s) can be replaced with the engine installed. Replacement of the rear oil seal requires that the engine and transmission be separated.


REPLACING FRONT CYLINDER BLOCK OIL SEALS

On models with 4-cylinder engines, the front crankshaft oil seal can be replaced without removing the timing chain cover or the timing chain. On models with 6-cylinder engines, it is necessary to remove the camshaft drive belt and the lower drive belt sprocket before replacing the crankshaft oil seal or the intermediate shaft oil seal.


TO REPLACE CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL (4-CYLINDER ENGINES):

1. Remove all V-belts from the front of the engine as described in LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE.



2. Using a 30 mm socket on the bolt in the center of the crankshaft, loosen the nut that secures the vibration damper (crankshaft pulley). Do not remove the nut.



3. Carefully pry the vibration damper loose. It may be necessary to use two screwdrivers on either side of the damper to aid in its removal. Once the damper is loose, remove the nut, the damper, and the woodruff key.


CAUTION - Excessive force should not be necessary to remove the vibration damper. Be careful not to damage the lower timing chain cover. Use two small blocks of wood under the tips of the screwdrivers to protect the housing.


4. Using an appropriate seal remove, pry the seal from the housing. See Fig. 6-1. As an alternative, use a screwdriver to carefully pry the seal from its housing.


CAUTION! Be careful not to mar the surface of the housing when removing the seal.

REMOVING AND INSTALLING VACUUM BOOSTER

The vacuum booster is not repairable, and if faulty must be replaced. It can be removed and installed with ordinary hand tools. Replacing the vacuum booster requires removing and installing the master cylinder. See Removing and Installing Master Cylinder above.

To remove the vacuum booster, disconnect the vacuum hose from the booster. Working from inside the passenger compartment, remove the lower left trim panels above the brake pedal. Disconnect the pushrod from the brake pedal by disconnecting the brake pedal return spring, prying off the retaining clip, and sliding out the clevis pin. See Fig. 4.4.

Remove the four mounting nuts as shown in Fig. 4-5. Working from the engine compartment side, pull the vacuum booster from the pedal base.

• Fundamentals
• Lubrication and Maintenance
• Engine Management-Driveability
• Engine
• Ignition
• Fuel System
• Cooling System
• Exhaust System and Emission Controls
• Manual Transmission and Clutch
• Automatic Transmission
• Driveshaft and Final Drive
• Brakes
• Suspension and Steering
• Body and Interior
• Electrical System