BMW 3-Series (E36) Repair Manual M3, 318i, 323i, 325i, 328i, Sedan, Coupe, Convertible 1992-1998

• 318i/is/iC M42: 1.8L engine, M44 - 1.9L engine, OBD II



• 323is/iC M52: 2.5L engine, OBD II



• 325i/is/iC M50: 2.5L engine



• 328i/is/iC M52: 2.8L engine, OBDII



• M3 S50US: 3.0L engine | S52US: 3.2L engine, OBD II

• Getrag S5D 250 G
• Getrag S5D 200 G
• ZF S5D 310 Z
• ZF S5D 320 Z

• A4S 270 R
• A4S 310 R
• A5S 310 Z

HYDRAULIC VALVE ADJUSTERS | CHECKING AND REPLACING (M44 ENGINE)

The M44 engine uses hydraulic valve adjusters (HVA) to keep valve clearances within a limited working range. See Fig. 11. HVAs are sealed units and require no maintenance.

Under some circumstances, such as a cold start, the hydraulic units may become noisy. Hydraulic valve adjuster noise is usually a high-pitched tapping or chattering noise. In most instances, this is considered normal as long as the noise goes away in a few minutes (maximum 20 minutes). If the noise does not go away, either the hydraulic unit is faulty or the oil pressure to the adjuster(s) is low.

NOTE: Before checking valve adjusters, make sure engine oil is fresh and at proper level.

1. Run engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.



2. Turn engine off and remove top engine cover, spark plugs, and cylinder head cover. See 113 Cylinder Head Removal and Installation.



3. Use a plastic or wooden stick to press down on top of the rocker arm end (side away from camshaft). If any play can be detected, the HVA is faulty and should be replaced.


NOTE: When checking the HVA, make sure the camshaft lobe is facing up so that there is no valve spring pressure on the adjuster.


4. To remove an HVA, turn engine over until camshaft lobe points straight up. Using BMW special tool no. 115130, depress valve spring and remove rocker arm from under camshaft. See Fig. 12.



5. Pull hydraulic valve adjuster straight out of cylinder head. See Fig. 13.



6. Installation is reverse of removal. Be sure to inspect HVA bore in the cylinder head for wear or scoring.

FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS

The front wheel bearings are permanently sealed and require no maintenance. The bearing is integral with the wheel hub and pressed onto the steering arm stub axle. Special press tools are required to replace the front wheel bearings. Read the procedure through before beginning the job.

FRONT WHEEL BEARING | REPLACING

1. Raise car and remove wheel.



2. Pry off dust cap from center of wheel hub. Bend back staked part of wheel hub (axle) collar nut. See Fig. 13.



3. Remount wheel and lug bolts.



4. Lower car to ground. With an assistant applying brakes, loosen collar nut. Do not remove completely.


NOTE: The wheel hub collar nut is tightened to a torque of 290 Nm (214 ft-lb). Make sure the car is firmly on the ground.


5. Raise car and remove wheel.



6. Remove ABS wheel speed sensor. Refer to Fig. 3.



7. Remove brake caliper assembly and brake rotor as described in 340 Brakes. Leave brake hose connected to caliper. Suspend caliper assembly from chassis using stiff wire.



8. Remove wheel hub collar nut.

• General Data and Maintenance
• Engine
• Engine Removal and Installation
• Cylinder Head Removal and Installation
• Lubrication System
• Ignition System
• Fuel Injection
• Radiator and Cooling System
• Exhaust System
• Transmission
• Manual Transmission
• Automatic Transmission
• Suspension, Steering and Brakes
• Steering and Wheel Alignment
• Rear Suspension
• Brakes
• Body
• Body Equipment
• Exterior Trim, Bumpers
• Central Locking and Anti-Theft
• Convertible Top
• Electrical System
• Electrical Component Locations
• Instruments
• Heating and Air Conditioning
• Equipment and Accessories
• Airbag System (SRS)
• Electrical Wiring Diagrams