The Triumph Spitfire Mk I, II, III, IV, 1500 Repair Manual 1962-1981 by Haynes, covers models indicated, powered by 1.2L (1147 cc), 1.3L (1296 cc), and 1.5L (1493 cc) inline 4-cylinder OHV engines.
The engines transfers power to the rear wheels via a 4-speed transmission
Book Excerpt: 1962-1981 Triumph Spitfire Mk I, II, III, IV, 1500 Repair Manual
BREAKERLESS DISTRIBUTOR | AIR GAP ADJUSTMENT
DIFFERENTIAL AND FINAL DRIVE
- This operation will normally only be required after overhaul of the distributor or replacement of its components.
- With the battery disconnected, and the distributor cap, anti-flash shield and rotor arm removed, insert a 0.015 in. (0.375 mm) feeler gauge into the gap and adjust so that it is a slight interference fit.
- Adjust by slackening the two pick-up screws, and then move the pick-up to suit. Retighten the screws to lock the pick-up with the correct gap setting.
- Re-check the gap after the pick-up screws have been tightened to ensure that the correct gap has been retained.
- Lubricate with light oil all mechanical moving parts.
NOTE: Do not insert the feeler gauge into the gap with the ignition circuit switched on!
DISTRIBUTOR | REMOVAL AND REFITTING
- Check that the ignition is switched off.
- Unclip the distributor cap and place it to one side without disconnecting the HT lead.
- On mechanical breaker type distributors, disconnect the distributor LT wire.
- On breakerless distributors, disconnect the wire connectors.
- Pull off the vacuum pipe from the vacuum capsule and the tachometer lead (later models)(photo).
- Remove the bolt which holds the clamp plate to the cylinder block, but not release the clamp plate pinch bolt or the timing will be upset (see Section 10 or 11).
- Withdraw the distributor.
- Refitting is simply a matter of aligning the distributor shaft offsets and pushing it into position.
- If the clamp plate pinch-bolt was slackened then turn the crankshaft until No. 1 piston is rising on its compression stroke. This is easily ascertained by removing No. 1 sparking plug and placing a finger over the plug hole to feed the compression being generated as the crankshaft is turned.
DIFFERENTIAL/FINAL DRIVE UNIT | REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
- Remove the rear wheel hub caps and loosen the wheel nuts one turn.
- Jack up the rear of the car and place stands or other supports under the chassis. For safety's sake disconnect the battery.
- Drain the oil from the differential unit and then remove both rear wheels placing the wheel nuts in the hub caps for safe keeping.
- Place jacks under the vertical link on each side of the car and raise the jack slightly to take the spring load. Take off the nyloc nuts and washers from the shock absorbers' lower attachment eyes and then pull the bottom of the shock absorbers clear of the mounting pins. Lower the jacks.
- Remove the rear exhaust pipe and silencer by undoing the pipe clip at the rear of the expansion chamber, free the mounting from the hypoid front plate and take out the nut and bolt which holds the fabric strap in place.
- Mark the adjacent differential to propeller shaft and driveshaft flanges and undo and remove the four bolts and nyloc nuts from these three sets of couplings.
- From behind the center of the front seats undo the four attachments which hold the spring access cover in place and lift the cover away.
- Access can now be gained to the nyloc nuts which hold the spring securing plate in place. Undo the nuts and remove the plate. Unscrew the studs from the top of the differential unit, using two nuts locked together on the threads.
- Continue to turn the crankshaft until the timing notch on the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the correct timing mark for your particular engine (see Specifications).
Subject: 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981 Triumph Spitfire Mk I, II, III, IV, 1500 service, maintenance, repair. ISBN-10: 1850100225 | ISBN-13: 9781850100225 | Haynes 94007