The 1979-1985 Mazda RX-7 DIY repair and service manual by Haynes, covers all models of this rotary engine-powered car.

As all Haynes manuals offered by The Motor Bookstore, this book gives the do-it-yourself mechanic, the information necessary to perform maintenance, service and complete repairs at home, saving time and money.

First generation RX-7 restorers will also benefit greatly from all the valuable information contained in this book. Easy-to-understand sequential text instructions are accompanied by close-up photos that show you each step.

This is a must-have guide if you want to take care of your RX-7 properly.

The RX-7 represents a new breed in the line of cars from Mazda. This sports car has been designed exclusively for the now-proven rotary engine, indicating the high degree of confidence that the Toyo Kogyo Company has in this power plant. The progression of the novel rotary engine has not been without its drawbacks, most notably fuel economy and overall durability. New design and manufacturing techniques, including a re-shaped combustion recess, new iron alloy apex seals and a formed aluminum rotor housing, have overcome these shortfalls while still providing excellent performance and low emissions. While some of the components which make up a rotary engine may sound foreign to a home mechanic more familiar with piston engines, the engine work is straightforward. The remainder of the car is conventional and should be no more difficult to work on than standard piston-engined automobiles. As previously mentioned, the RX-7 has been designed for one, and only one, type of engine - the rotary. Transmission options, on the other hand, include a 4-speed manual, 5-speed manual and automatic, which are dealt with separately in this manual. The Mazda engineers have chosen independent front suspension with MacPherson struts, coil springs and anti-roll bar up front and a coil sprung live axle with four trailing arms at the rear. The steering is of the recirculating ball and nut type with a variable ratio. Brakes are ventilated discs up front and finned drums at the rear (standard) or disc brakes front and rear (optional on later models). The RX-7 has gone through little in the way of changes through its production run, with principal updates in the area of emission systems. Changes and modifications are outlined in the appropriate sections, and for 1981-1985 models, in Chapter 13.

DISMANTLING

1. Clear an area in your workshop which can be kept relatively clean and is large enough to lay out the various transmission components as they are removed.
2. Clean the outside housings on the transmission and the inner surface of the clutch bellhousing, but do not get the clutch-withdrawal bearing wet as it is pre-lubricated and cannot properly be dried or regreased.
3. Remove the withdrawal bearing from the shaft by unclipping it from the fork (photo).
4. Remove the release fork by unclipping it from its pivot ball. Slide it towards the inside of the housing, through the rubber boot.
5. Remove the six bolts securing the front cover and remove the front cover and the adjusting shim(s) behind it. Leave the oil seal intact in the front cover unless there are signs of leakage, requiring the oil seal replacement (photos).
6. Remove the snap ring located on the mainshaft just ahead of the exposed bearing (photo).
7. The gearshift lever retainer is held in place with four bolts. Remove these and then lift off the retainer and accompanying gasket (photo).
8. Remove the bolts which secure the rear extension housing to the middle housing (photo).
9. To remove the extension housing, the control rod end (which the gearshift lever fits into) must be as far forward as possible and laid down to the left side. Tap the attaching flanges of the two housings with a rubber mallet to break the seal, and remove the extension housing. Never use a screwdriver or chisel to pry the housings apart, as this may damage the machined surfaces.

Above: Stan Dyer's 1981 Mazda RX-7. The car is completely converted to run on electricity, with 18 six-volt batteries hooked in series to provide 108 volts of electricity to the 9" series wound motor. The car has a range of 50 miles, (depending on grade and conditions), and has gone over 500 miles on $11 worth of electricity. It is now charged from a bank of photovoltaic solar panels. Arvada, CO.