The 1976-1978 Kawasaki Z650, KZ650 Fours repair manual by Haynes covers the following models:

• Kawasaki Z650B1 (Z650), U.K. October 1976-on
• Kawasaki KZ650B1 (KZ650), U.S. September 1976-on

Book Excerpt: 1976-1978 Kawasaki Z650, KZ650 Fours Repair Manual ENGINE, CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION

ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION REASSEMBLY: REFITTING THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY AND CONTACT BREAKER UNIT

1. Fit the special washer onto the end of the transmission mainshaft, noting that the chamfered face must be innermost. The clutch needle roller bearing can be fitted next, followed by the clutch drum and thrust washer. Note that the latter is marked 'OUTSIDE' and must be fitted accordingly. Fit and tighten the clutch center nut to 12-15 kg m (87-108 ft lb), locking the crankshaft in a similar manner to that used to hold it during dismantling.
2. Place the clutch plates in position, starting and finishing with a friction plate. Before fitting the cover, grease and insert the 3/8 in. steel ball in the center of the mainshaft, followed by the mushroom-headed pushrod. The cover can now be refitted, the springs and washers placed in position, and the retaining bolts tightened down diagonally to 0.9-1.1 kg m (78-95 in lb) of torque.
3. If the kickstart shaft oil seal or (less likely) the oil level window has shown signs of leaking, they should be driven out of the clutch cover. New seals can be carefully tapped back into position, taking great care not to damage the sealing edge.
4. The cover should be fitted using a new gasket. To prevent oil leakage, a smear of gasket cement should be applied at the two points where the crankcase halves were joined. Offer up the outer casing and tighten down the securing screws firmly.
5. Place the automatic timing unit in position on the end of the crankshaft, ensuring that the driving pin engages in the corresponding hole at the back of the unit. Fit and tighten the retaining bolt to 2.3-2.7 kg m (16.5-19.5 ft lb), holding the crankshaft with a 17mm spanner.

IGNITION SYSTEM

IGNITION COILS: CHECKING

1. The ignition coils are a sealed unit designed to give long life, and are mounted on the frame tubes in the upper cradle behind the steering head. The most accurate test of an ignition coil is with a three point coil and condenser tester (electro tester).
2. Connect the coil to the tester when the unit is switched on, and open out the adjusting screw on the tester to 6mm (0.24 inch). The spark at this point should bridge the gap continuously. If the spark starts to break down or is intermittent, the coil is faulty and should be replaced.
3. In the absence of a coil tester, the winding may be checked for broken or shorted windings using a multimeter, noting that test will not reveal insulation breakdown which may only be evident under high voltage.
4. The primary winding resistance can be measured by connecting one of the meter probes to the red/yellow lead, and the other to the green or black lead. Resistance should be in the region of 4 ohms. Secondary resistance involves the connection of one probe to each of the high tension leads. In this case the resistance should be approximately 23 k ohms.
Finally check for any conductivity between the coil body and the red/yellow lead. If the insulation here is not perfect, or if the primary and secondary resistance readings are noticeably different from those specified, then the coil should be replaced.

Subject: 1976, 1977, 1978 Kawasaki Z650, KZ650 Fours service, maintenance, repair. ISBN-10: 0856963739 | ISBN-13: 9780856963735 | Haynes 373