This DIY maintenance, service and repair manual by Haynes, covers 1976-1993 Volvo 240 Series, 2- and 4-door sedan and station wagon models with 2.1L or 2.3L gasoline engines (including turbo).
Models covered include:
- Volvo 240
- Volvo 242
- Volvo 244
- Volvo 245
Note: this manual DOES NOT include diesel engine information.
Book Excerpt: 1976-1993 Volvo 240 Series Repair Manual
COOLING, HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEMS
RADIATOR | REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
(Refer to illustrations 4.3a, 4.3b, 4.3c, 4.5, 4.8 and 4.9)
WARNING: Wait until the engine is completely cool before beginning this procedure.
- Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. Caution: It is necessary to make sure the radio is turned OFF before disconnecting the battery cables to avoid damaging the microprocessor built into the radio.
- Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1). If the coolant is relatively new or in good condition, save it and reuse it.
- Loosen the hose clamps, and then detach the radiator hoses from the fittings (see illustrations). If they're stuck, grasp each hose near the end with a pair of adjustable pliers and twist it to break the seal, then pull it off - be careful not to distort the radiator fittings! If the hoses are old or deteriorated, cut them off and install new ones.
- Disconnect the reservoir hose from the radiator.
- Remove the screws that attach the shroud to the radiator and slide the shroud toward the engine (see illustration).
- If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, disconnect the cooler lines from the radiator. Use a drip pan to catch spilled fluid.
- Plug the lines and fittings.
- Remove the brackets that retain the radiator (see illustrations).
- Carefully lift out the radiator (see illustration). Don't spill coolant on the vehicle or scratch the paint.
- With the radiator removed, it can be inspected for leaks and damage. If it needs repair, have a radiator shop or dealer service department perform the work as special techniques are required.
- Bugs and dirt can be removed from the radiator with compressed air and a soft brush. Don't bend the cooling fins as this is done.
- Check the radiator mounts for deterioration and make sure there's nothing in them when the radiator is installed.
REAR BRAKE VALVES | REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
(Refer to illustration 7.3)
- Any fault in either of the two brake valves, which are integral with the rear brake lines, can only be rectified by replacing the valve assembly.
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands.
3. Disconnect the rigid brake line (see illustration) from the valve. Cap or plug the line to prevent loss of fluid.
4. Loosen, but don't try to disconnect, the flexible brake hose from the valve. Don't unscrew the hose fitting more than a quarter of a turn - you'll kink the hose.
5. Remove the brake valve retaining bolt, and then unscrew the valve body from the flexible hose. Don't twist the hose.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal.
NOTE: Different models have different operating pressures. Make sure to replace the valve with the correct part number for your vehicle.
7. When you're done, bleed the hydraulic circuit (see Section 10).
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM | BLEEDING
(Refer to illustration 10.4)
- Whenever the hydraulic system has been overhauled, a part has been replaced, or the level in the reservoir has become too low, air will enter the system. This causes some or all of the pedal travel to be used up in compressing air rather than pushing fluid against brake pistons. If only a little air is present, the pedal will have a 'spongy' feel, but if an appreciable amount has entered, the pedal will not offer any substantial resistance to the foot and the brakes will hardly work at all.
- To overcome this, brake fluid must be pumped through the hydraulic system until all the air has been passed out in the form of bubbles in the fluid.
- If only one hydraulic circuit has been disconnect, only that circuit needs to be bled. The circuits in a non-ABS system are arranged as follows:
- Primary: Upper cylinders in both front calipers, and left-hand rear.
- Secondary: Lower cylinders in both front calipers, and right-hand rear.
NOTE: On pre-1977 models, the primary and secondary circuits are reversed. Bleed the system as shown (see illustration). There are three bleed screws on each front caliper, and one on each rear caliper. When bleeding the front caliper lower cylinders, both the lower bleed screws should be opened and closed together.
Subject: 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993 Volvo 240 Series service, maintenance, repair. ISBN-10: 1563921367 | ISBN-13: 9781563921360 | Haynes 97020