You'd think that finding detailed DIY repair information for newer cars like the Nissan Altima would be easy in the Internet age. However, to really get technician-level information that's been written so that home mechanics can actually understand it, you'll need the 2007-2012 Nissan Altima service manual by Haynes. This informative guide covers everything you need to know to keep your Altima is great shape. From regular maintenance and tune-ups to complex wiring diagrams and repair tutorials made simple, you'll suddenly be eager to take charge any time an issue pops up with your car.

The Nissan Altima repair book is made for most models made from 2007-2012. Please note that this manual does not include info specific to hybrid Altimas. You will, however, find detailed information on caring for either the 2.5L four-cylinder engine or the 3.5L V6 engine.

Note: This manual does NOT include info specific to hybrid Altimas.

REAR MAIN OIL SEAL - REPLACEMENT

1. The engine/transaxle assembly must be removed from the vehicle for this procedure (see Chapter 2C). Separate the transaxle from the engine (see Chapter 7).
2. Remove the flywheel or drive plate (see section 16).
3. Remove the bolts from the rear seal retainer. Tap the retainer sideways with a plastic hammer to break the seal and remove it. Discard the seal/retainer assembly - it must be replaced with a new assembly.
4. Remove all old RTV sealant from the rear of the engine and the oil pan. Clean the surfaces with brake system cleaner.
5. Obtain special seal installation tool J-47128. It is available from automotive tool suppliers and Nissan dealerships.
6. Loosen the tool's wing nut.
7. Install the tool onto the rear of the crankshaft so it covers the sealing surface. Tighten the wing nut.
8. Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the sealing surface of the new retainer.
9. Lightly lubricate the oil seal lip with clean engine oil, and then slide it over the tool and into position.

BRAKE HOSES: REPLACEMENT (Refer to illustrations 8.3 and 8.4).

1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands. Remove the wheel.
2. At the bracket, unscrew the brake line fitting from the hose (see illustration). Use a flare-nut wrench to prevent rounding off the corners.
3. Remove the U-clip from the female fitting at the bracket with a pair of pliers (see illustration), then pass the hose through the bracket.
4. At the caliper end of the hose, remove the banjo bolt, then separate the hose from the caliper. Note that there are two sealing washers on either side of the banjo fitting - they should be replaced with new ones during installation.

METAL BRAKE LINES When replacing brake lines, be sure to use the correct parts. Don't use copper tubing for any brake system components. Purchase steel brake lines from a dealer or auto parts store. Prefabricated brake line, with the tube ends already flared and fittings installed, is available at auto parts stores and dealer parts departments. When installing the new line, make sure it's securely supported in the brackets and has plenty of clearance between moving or hot components. After installation, check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid as necessary. Bleed the brake system (see Section 9) and test the brakes carefully before driving the vehicle in traffic.