Chilton's Snowmobile Handbook: Repair, Service and Maintenance Manual

SKU: S9124
Chilton's Snowmobile Handbook
Chilton's Snowmobile Handbook
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Owning and riding a snowmobile is fun, but in order to fully enjoy the experience, you want to make sure you purchase the right snowmobile and also the right gear.

The Snowmobile Handbook by Chilton has been a popular do-it-yourself how-to book at The Motor Bookstore for a long time. This is the perfect companion for snowmobile enthusiasts and DIY mechanics.

The book covers everything you want to know:

  • How to choose the right snowmobile
  • Proper riding gear
  • How to maintain and service the engine and drivetrain
  • Chassis maintenance
  • Getting ready to ride
  • Accessorizing your snowmobile
  • Cleaning your snowmobile
  • Basic troubleshooting (How your snowmobile works)
  • Long-term storage
An excellent information guide that belongs in the library of the serious snowmobile owner and rider.

Book Excerpt

(See figures 43, 44, 45 and 46)

Regardless of how you choose to remove the old coolant from your snowmobile?s cooling system, the method in which it is filled is universal. One might think that filling the cooling system involves nothing more than pouring fresh coolant into the system until the level is correct.

Well, for the most part, that is correct; however, the air must be bled from the cooling system to prevent air pockets that can cause ?hot spots? which can lead to engine damage.

Since every snowmobile?s cooling system is configured differently, make sure to check with the owner?s manual or manufacturer about refilling the system. Although a generic procedure is given here, it is virtually impossible to give a specific method of filling the cooling system of every snowmobile, since they are all configured differently.

The air bleed screws (located in different areas) are usually what dictates a specific method of filling the cooling system; check your owner?s manual for further details.

  1. Using a clean five gallon bucket or other suitable container, mix the appropriate amount of coolant with water as recommended by the manufacturer. This should be done in a clean bucket or other container. In most cases, the ratio is 50:50, but some manufacturers call for 60:40 and higher mixtures.
  2. Add the properly mixed ratio of coolant and water to the cooling system. Use a funnel to prevent spilling coolant onto the disc brake caliper.

    If your sled has an air bleed screw on the rear heat exchanger, remove the screw when adding the coolant, when solid coolant (free of air bubbles) flows from the bleed screw, install the screw and tighten it securely.

    Lifting up the rear of the sled with the bleed screw open will also help free any air bubbles trapped in the system.

  3. Remove the air bleed screw on the cylinder(s) head, and continue to add coolant. When solid coolant (free of air bubbles) flows from the bleed screw, install the screw.
  4. Add coolant to the expansion tank until the level is correct.
  5. Start the engine and allow the water pump to circulate the coolant throughout the system.
  6. Before the engine warms the coolant, shut the engine off and loosen the bleed screws and let out any trapped air within the system. Use a rag or towel to contain any excess coolant.
  7. Finally, top off the coolant level to the proper mark on the expansion tank/reservoir. Make sure not to overfill the system, or the sled will ?puke? coolant from the overflow hose when the engine is warm.
  8. When you?re done with your coolant change, do your part to help clean up the environment; dispose of used coolant properly by taking it to the local recycling facility.


A mushy feeling at the brake lever is most often due to air in the lines. This can happen if the fluid level drops too low, or if a line or hose is disconnected for any reason. This requires brake bleeding to remove the air.

Brake bleeding can be done manually, where the fluid is pumped out using the master cylinder, can be performed using a vacuum pump, or by gravity. A vacuum pump sucks the old fluid out through the bleeder.

Gravity bleeding allows the fluid to flow out over a period of time. Manual bleeding is the most common method. Vacuum bleeding is very quick, but requires use of a vacuum pump.

One small drawback of vacuum bleeding though, is air sometimes is sucked through the threads of the bleeder, and can obscure the vision of real air bubbles in the fluid. Gravity bleeding is the easiest, but it can take a while and might not dislodge stubborn air bubbles.

Subject: Snowmobile DIY workshop and service manual. ISBN-10: 0801991242 | ISBN-13: 9780801991240 | Chilton 9124

  • Publisher: Clymer Series / Haynes Manuals
  • Pages: 316 - Hundreds of b&w photos & illustrations
  • Binding: Paperback - 8.25 x 10.75 inches
  • ISBN: 978-0-80-199124-0
Table of Contents
How to use this book | Safety in snowmobile service | The work area (setting up shop) | Tools | Fasteners, measurements and conversions CHOOSING THE RIGHT SNOWMOBILE
Choosing the right snowmobile | Break-in RIDING GEAR ENGINE AND DRIVETRAIN MAINTENANCE
Engine maintenance | Engine tune-up | Drivetrain maintenance CHASSIS MAINTENANCE
Chassis maintenance | Brake system | Electrical system maintenance PREPARING TO RIDE
Pre-ride check | Planning a snowmobile trip | Transporting your snowmobile | Riding safely | Survival on the trail ACCESSORIZING YOUR SNOWMOBILE CLEANING YOUR SNOWMOBILE BASIC TROUBLESHOOTING
Troubleshooting your snowmobile | Powertrain theory and diagnosis | Fuel system theory and diagnosis | Suspension theory and diagnosis | Brake system theory and diagnosis | Electrical theory and diagnosis 10 - LONG-TERM STORAGE
Storing your snowmobile | Removing your snowmobile from storage GLOSSARY AND MASTER INDEX
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Chilton's Snowmobile Handbook: Repair, Service and Maintenance Manual
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