The Chilton Easy Car Care 4th Edition is the perfect basic repair manual for the home mechanic. Tune-ups, oil changes, spark plugs, rust repair, belts and hoses, and much more.
Step-by-step repair and maintenance procedures are accompanied by b&w photographs and illustrations to help you along.
- Step-by-step procedures
- Automobile care
- Pickup truck care
- SUV, van and minivan care
- Detailed explanations
- Hundreds of close-up photos
- Vehicle buying and leasing
- Pre-purchase vehicle inspection
- Buying replacement parts
- Communicating with your mechanic
- ... and much more!
No vehicle owner should be without the information in this manual.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM: LIGHTS, FUSES AND FLASHERS
LIGHT BULBS (See Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4)
Small bulbs, used for most automotive applications, come in several basic types: single contact bayonet base, double contact bayonet base with opposed or staggered indexing lugs, cartridge types for a small, flat installation, and wedge-base light bulbs.
Small bulbs show a broken filament when burned out and are easily replaced. Turn them about 1/4 turn and pull them from the socket. The single contact bayonet base is usually used for instrument panel lights in a small snap-in socket. The major difficulty in replacing these is finding them.
The double contact bayonet base is commonly used for turn signals, parking and taillights. The staggered indexing lugs allow one-way installation so the filament connection is correct. These bulbs are reached by removing the lens or light assembly; inside the trunk is also a common place to hide the light housings.
Don't forget to install the gasket under the lens or housing, if one is used. The gasket seals out moisture, a major cause of bulb troubles. While the bulb is out of the socket, check the socket for corrosion and if necessary, clean it.
Poor grounding is a major cause of non-functioning bulbs, especially when the bulb filaments are OK. Scraping the terminal sockets and polishing the bulb contacts is frequently all that's required.
Also, check the ground between the bulb housing and the fender, and between the fender and the body. The electricity has to get back to the ground (negative) side of the battery. If it can't because of poor grounding, the bulb won't work.
Many times, running a ground wire from the bulb housing directly to the frame of the vehicle is easier than trying to make a ground through rusted sheet metal.
Fuses never blow because of high voltage. High amperage in the circuit, greater than the capacity of the fuse, causes the metal strip to heat up, melt and open the circuit, preventing the flow of electricity. A fuse could carry 200 volts as well as 2 volts, but will only tolerate its rated amperage and about 10% to handle minor current surges before it blows.
Auto fuses come in several designs, but all usually consist of a zinc strip or piece of wire. The old glass fuse, used in older model vehicles, is primarily used in accessory applications today.
On all late model vehicles, you'll likely find a fuse that is different from the old glass tube fuse. It's a miniaturized, blade-type design that is referred to as ATC, ATM, or MAX fuse.
The "blade-type" was developed in conjunction with the smaller fuse block. Fuses of different ratings are interchangeable but amperage ratings are molded in color-coded numbers that match the fuse ratings on the fuse block. The following chart identifies the amperage and color codes.
Subject: Chilton Easy Car Care 4th Edition, Basic Car, Truck, SUV Repairs, Service and More. ISBN-10: 0801988527 | ISBN-13: 9780801988523 | Chilton 8852