This DIY repair manual by Haynes, covers 1979-1995 Toyota pick-up trucks, and 1984-1995 Toyota 4Runner, 2WD and 4WD models with 20R, 22R, 22R-E, and 22R-TE 4-cylinder, and V6 gasoline engines.
Note: this manual DOES NOT include diesel engine, T100 or Tacoma model info.
Book Excerpt: 1979-1995 Toyota Pick-up Trucks, 1984-1995 4Runner Repair Manual
GENERAL ENGINE OVERHAUL PROCEDURES
REAR MAIN OIL SEAL INSTALLATION
(Refer to illustrations 23.3, 23.5 and 23.6)
- The crankshaft must be installed first and the main bearing caps or cap assembly bolts in place, and then the new seal should be installed in the retainer and the retainer bolted to the block.
- Check the seal contact surface on the crankshaft very carefully for scratches and nicks that could damage the new seal lip and cause oil leaks. If the crankshaft is damaged, the only alternative is a new or different crankshaft.
- The old seal can be removed from the retainer by driving it out from the back side with a hammer and punch (see illustration). Be sure to note how far it's recessed into the bore before removing it; the new seal will have to be recessed an equal amount.
Be very careful not to scratch or otherwise damage the bore in the retainer or oil leaks could develop.
- Make sure the retainer is clean, and then apply a thin coat of engine oil to the outer edge of the new seal. The seal must be pressed squarely into the bore, so hammering it into place isn't recommended.
If you don't have access to a press, sandwich the housing and seal between two smooth pieces of wood and press the seal into place with the jaws of a large vise. The pieces of wood must be thick enough to distribute the force evenly around the entire circumference of the seal.
Work slowly and make sure the seal enters the bore squarely.
- As a last resort, the seal can be tapped into the retainer with a hammer. Use a block of wood to distribute the force evenly and make sure the seal is driven in squarely (see illustration).
EMISSIONS CONTROL SYSTEMS
CHECK | CANISTER
- Label the lines and their respective canister pipes before detaching them. The following test requires that you be able to identify the tank and purge pipes.
- Remove the charcoal canister(s) (some models have one canister, some have two).
- Inspect the canister(s) for cracks or damage.
- To check the canister(s) for a clogged filter, blow into the fuel tank pipe with low pressure compressed air and verify that the air flows out the other pipes without resistance.
- Blow into the purge pipe and verify that air flows without resistance from the other pipes.
- If the canister fails either of the above tests, replace it.
- To clean the filter, blow low pressure compressed air into each pipe while closing off the other canister pipes. No activated charcoal should come out. If it does, replace the canister. Caution: Do not attempt to wash the canister.
FUEL FILLER CAP AND CHECK VALVES
- Checking the canister and lines is a routine maintenance procedure. Refer to Chapter 1 for details.
- To check the filler cap and check valve, remove the cap and detach the retainer (it is held in place with screws). The retainer is not removable on newer caps.
- Look for a damaged or deformed gasket and make sure that the check valve is not stuck open. If the valve or gasket is not in good condition, replace the cap with a new one.
OUTER VENT CONTROL VALVE
- Disconnect the outer vent hose from the carburetor.
- Blow air into the outer vent pipe (see illustration) and see if the outer vent control valve is open.
- Start the engine and, with the engine idling, blow air into the outer vent pipe again. The outer vent control valve should now be closed.
Subject: 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995 Toyota, 4Runner service, maintenance, repair. ISBN-10: 1563921510 | ISBN-13: 9781563921513 | Haynes 92075