The 1993-2005 Yamaha Kodiak, Grizzly ATV repair manual by Haynes, covers the following model years:
- Yamaha Kodiak 400 (386cc), 1993-1999
- Yamaha Kodiak 400 (401cc), 2000-2005
- Yamaha Kodiak 450 (421cc), 2003-2005
- Yamaha Grizzly 600 (595cc), 1998-2001
- Yamaha Grizzly 660 (660cc), 2002-2005
Like all service and repair manuals by Haynes, this one for Yamaha Kodiak and Grizzly 4-wheelers is intended for ATV owners who want to take care of their own vehicles at home.
Packed with clear, close-up photos of components being discussed, the manual presents all procedures in sequential order with illustrations along the way, which makes it very easy to use and understand.
Not every job requires a trip to the dealer, and doing some if not all of the maintenance, service or repair work yourself can save you both time and money.
And when you get your manuals from The Motor Bookstore, you're protected by our 30-Day Money-Back Guarantee.
Book Excerpt: 1993-2005 Yamaha Kodiak and Grizzly ATV Repair Manual
TUNE-UP AND ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
ENGINE/TRANSFER CASE OIL/FILTER
GENERAL ENGINE OVERHAUL PROCEDURES
(Refer to illustrations 13.6a, 13.6b, 13.6c and 13.6d)
CARTIDGE FILTER MODELS
- The transfer case on 1993 through 1998 models shares a common oil supply with the engine, but has a separate drain plug. 1999 and later Kodiak models and Grizzly 600 models have an oil drain plug at the rear of the crankcase, as well as an oil strainer screen/drain plug in the bottom center of the crankcase.
Grizzly 660 models have a single oil drain plug in the bottom of the crankcase.
- Consistent routine oil and filter changes are the single most important maintenance procedure you can perform on a vehicle. The oil not only lubricates the internal parts of the engine, transmission, clutch and 4WD transfer case (if equipped), but it also acts as a coolant, a cleaner, a sealant, and a protectant.
Because of these demands, the oil takes a terrific amount of abuse and should be replaced often with new oil of the recommended grade and type. Saving a little money on the difference in cost between a good oil and a cheap oil won?t pay off if the engine is damaged.
- Before changing the oil and filter, warm up the engine so the oil will drain easily. Be careful when draining the oil, as the exhaust pipe, the engine and the oil itself can cause severe burns.
- Park the vehicle over a clean drain pan.
- Remove the dipstick/oil filler cap to vent the crankcase and act as a reminder that there is no oil in the engine.
- Next, remove the drain plug(s) from the engine (and transfer case if equipped) (see illustrations) and allow the oil to drain into the pan. On models with an oil screen plug, the O-ring, spring and strainer will probably fall out as the plug is removed, so be careful not to lose them.
(Refer to illustrations 13.9a, 13.9b, 13.9c, 13.9d, 13.10 and 13.11)
- If you?re working on a Kodiak, unbolt the retainer that secures the two oil hoses running to the filter cover.
- If you?re working on a Kodiak, remove the shift pedal (see Chapter 2A).
- Remove the oil filter cover bolts (see illustration), then remove the outer cover. If you?re working on a Kodiak, remove the inner cover with O-rings. On Kodiak and Grizzly models, remove the filter element (see illustration).
If additional maintenance is planned for this time period, check or service another component while the oil is allowed to drain completely.
PISTON | REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND INSTALLATION
TABLE of CONTENTS:
- The piston is attached to the connecting rod with a piston pin that is a slip fit in the piston rod.
- Before removing the piston from the rod, stuff a clean shop towel into the crankcase hole, around the connecting rod. This will prevent the circlips from falling into the crankcase if they are inadvertently dropped.
REMOVAL (Refer to illustrations 10.3a, 10.3b and 10.4)
- The piston should have an IN mark on its crown that goes toward the intake (rear) side of the engine (see illustration), or an EX mark that goes toward the front (exhaust) side of the engine, or an arrow mark that points to the front of the engine.
If this mark is not visible due to carbon buildup, scribe an arrow into the piston crown before removal. Support the piston and pry the circlips out with a pointed tool (see illustration).
- Push the piston pin out from the opposite end to fee the piston from the rod. You may have to deburr the area around the groove to enable the pin to slide out (use a triangular file for this procedure).
If the pin won?t come out, you can fabricate a piston pin removal tool from a long bolt, a nut, a piece of tubing and washers (see illustration).
Introductory Pages: About this manual | Introduction to the Kodiak and Grizzly | Identification numbers | Buying parts | General specifications | Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities | Safety first! | ATV chemicals and lubricants | Troubleshooting
- Tune-up and routine maintenance
- Engine, clutch and transmission
- Cooling system
- Fuel and exhaust system
- Ignition system
- Steering, suspension and final drive
- Brakes, wheels and tires
- Frame and bodywork
- Electrical system
- Wiring diagrams
Subject: 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005 Yamaha Kodiak and Grizzly service, maintenance, repair. ISBN-10: 1563925672 | ISBN-13: 9781563925672 | Haynes 2567