This repair and service manual covers Jeep Liberty, 2WD and 4WD models, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 with 2.4L four-cylinder or 3.7L V6 engines.
Note: this manual DOES NOT cover diesel models.
Book Excerpt: 2002-2007 Jeep Liberty Repair Manual
GENERAL INFORMATION
The information in this Chapter deals with the components from the rear of the engine to the drive wheels, except for the transmission and transfer case, which are dealt with in previous Chapter. For the purpose of this Chapter, these components are grouped into three categories: clutch, driveshaft and axles. Separate Sections within this Chapter offer general descriptions and checking procedures for components in each of the three groups.
Since nearly all the procedures covered in this Chapter involve working under the vehicle, make sure it?s securely supported on sturdy jackstands or a hoist where the vehicle can be easily raised and lowered.
CLUTCH: DESCRIPTION AND CHECK
All vehicles with a manual transmission use a single dry plate, diaphragm spring type clutch. The clutch disc has a splined hub which allows it to slide along the splines of the transmission input shaft. The clutch and pressure plate are held in contact by spring pressure exerted by the diaphragm in the pressure plate.
The clutch release system is operated by hydraulic pressure. The hydraulic release system consists of the clutch pedal, a master cylinder and fluid reservoir, the hydraulic line, a slave cylinder, and a release lever mounted inside the clutch housing.
When the pressure is applied to the clutch pedal to release the clutch, hydraulic pressure is exerted against the release bearing through the release lever. The bearing pushes against the fingers of the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate assembly, which in turn releases the clutch plate.
Terminology can be a problem when discussing the clutch components because common names are in some cases different from those used by manufacturer. For example, the driven plate is also called the clutch plate or disc. The clutch release bearing is sometimes called a throwout bearing. The release cylinder is sometimes called the operating or slave cylinder.
Other than replacement of components with obvious damage, some preliminary checks should be performed to diagnose clutch problems.
The first check should be the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. If the fluid level is low, add fluid as necessary and inspect the hydraulic system for leaks.
To check ?clutch spin down time?, run the engine at normal idle speed with the transmission in Neutral (clutch pedal up- engaged). Disengage the clutch (pedal down), wait several seconds and shift the transmission into Reverse.
No grinding noise should be heard. A grinding noise would most likely indicate a problem in the pressure plate or the clutch disc (assuming the transmission is in good condition).
To check for the complete clutch release, run the engine (with the parking brake applied to prevent movement) and hold the clutch pedal approximately « inch from the floor. Shift the transmission between 1st gear and Reverse several times.
If the shift is rough, component failure is indicated. Check the release cylinder pushrod travel. With the clutch pedal depressed completely, the release cylinder pushrod should extend substantially. If it doesn?t, check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder.
Visually inspect the pivot bushing at the top of the clutch pedal to make sure there is no binding or excessive play.
BODY REPAIR: MINOR DAMAGE
REPAIR OF SCRATCHES
If the scratch is superficial and does not penetrate to the metal of the body, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the scratched area with a fine rubbing compound to remove loose paint and built-up wax. Rinse the area with clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch, using a small brush. Continue to apply thin layers of the paint until the surface of the paint in the scratch is level with the surrounding paint. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then blend it into the surrounding paint by rubbing with a very fine rubbing compound. Finally apply a coat of wax to the scratch area.
If the scratch has penetrated the paint and exposed the metal of the body, causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique is required. Remove all loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a pocket knife, then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, coat the scratched area with glaze-type filler. If required, the filler can be mixed with thinner to provide a very thin paste, which is ideal for filling narrow scratches.
Before the glaze filler in the scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton cloth around the tip of the finger. Dip the cloth in thinner and then quickly wipe it along the surface of the scratch. This will ensure the surface of the filler is slightly hollow. The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier in this section.
TABLE of CONTENTS:
Introduction: Vehicle identification numbers; Buying parts; Maintenance techniques, and more.
